ESPITE its strange, slightly comical appearance—cross-eyed, with a sulkily jutting lip—turbot has always been the most regal of fish. It may look cartoonish, but, when it comes to taste, it’s very much an Old Master—rich, elegant and lusciously textured, a favourite of chefs everywhere. The Roman Emperor Domitian was so obsessed with it that, rather than simply trusting his cooks, he once asked the entire senate for some culinary inspiration. History doesn’t record its response. It was a perennial fixture on the royal table, too, and a particular favourite of
