The forested hills of Western Maryland are interspersed with black locust, flowering dogwood, chestnut oak and basswood. In late spring, for a few short weeks, only black locust is in bloom. Its white flowers grow in pendulous clusters, filling the air with a sweet, almost minty perfume. The season is prized by beekeepers for the uniqueness of its honey, tasting floral and woodsy, yet also of sweet peas and citrus.
Winemaker Rachel Lipman of
