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11, 000 YEARS IN THE PAST

I’m standing on a hilltop amid millennia-old ruins, surrounded by a landscape of sun-dried grass. It looks as if I’m in the middle of nowhere—a strange way for me to think about a spot that might be the center of everything.

This is Göbekli Tepe, one of the most important archaeological discoveries in human history. Located in eastern Türkiye’s region of ancient

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