Cycling in Zeeland, the Netherlands untouched province, makes for the perfect solo trip

by Jini Reddy Oct 31, 2023 6 minutes

These days I’d call myself a cycling flaneuse – longer cycle touring losing its appeal thanks to my unwillingness to ride in the company of others (usually speedier than I), coupled with my lamentable map-reading skills. I was nevertheless hankering after a few days of gentle pedalling, preferably somewhere coastal, with the sea acting as my compass. But where to go and how to do it? I certainly didn’t fancy lugging my own bike along.

A friend who’d holidayed there as a child recommended the province of Zeeland, an archipelago of peninsulas in the southwest of the Netherlands. As a cyclist who avoids hills like the plague, it sounded like the perfect destination – and so it proved.

I honed in on Vlissingen, a port city and seaside resort in Zeeland on what was, prior to the construction of a dam in 1871, the isle of Walcheren. It’s on the doorstep of a frankly luscious cycle path that follows the rugged coastline for miles. I later learned that this forms part of the 610km-long Dutch Coastal Route which begins in the province at Sluis – the town sits on the Dutch-Belgian border – and ends in the northern university town of Groningen.

Solo cycling: Jini takes in the view from Westduin Beach, Vlissingen (Jini Reddy)

After a journey down on the Eurostar to Rotterdam, I hopped onto the Intercity train to Vlissingen, at the end of the line. From the sleepy station I took a short bus ride to my Airbnb studio, Costa del Nolle, located in a quiet suburb. I’d taken a punt and booked it for three nights owing to its proximity to the quiet Westduin Beach, the coast path and the Nollebos – a natural forest tucked behind the dunes. Door to door, the journey had taken me under six hours from St Pancras.

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Although my kindly hosts, Tsarina and Richard, rent out bicycles, in the land of the tall, I’m an anomaly at 5ft 2in. Fortunately, the next day I was able to hire a seven-gear Dutch-style bike, better suited to my height and light and sporty enough for longer rides, from the friendly Vlissingen Fietsverhuur on St Jacobsstraat near the old market square for €13 (£11.35). The street is full of independent shops, including fashion emporium Mrs Marcos, and the charming veggie and vegan-friendly Nopal restaurant is just around the corner.

The city may be small fry where Dutch metropolises are concerned, but alongside a marina and its beaches, Vlissingen boasts a lively seafront promenade, aka the boulevard, rumoured to be the longest in the Netherlands. (Admittedly some spectacularly ugly high rises loom at one end of it, though the locals don’t seem bothered by the eyesore.) An annual film festival, Film by the Sea, is the highlight of the cultural calendar.

It’s hard to overstate the rapture that came over me as I found myself back in my element; on two wheels

It’s hard to overstate the rapture that came over me as I found myself back in my element; on two wheels. Winding my way from the shop, past the 16th-century Sint Jacobskerk Church and Bellamy Park (the historic town square), I soon found myself on a cycle path that ran parallel to the boulevard and overlooked the urban Badstrand Beach and the Western Scheldt, the estuary of the Scheldt River. It was a terrific vantage point from which to spot cargo ships and oil tankers from all corners of the globe chugging through its slate-blue waters. Screaming seagulls and childish squeals mingled in the briny sea air. While on land, it was a joy to spot people of all ages on a variety of two-wheelers: everything from wheelchair bikes to tricycles and side-by-side tandems.

A little further on, at the edge of the Nollestrand Beach, the boulevard joined the coast path – from here, if I wanted to, I could tackle a 49km round trip, one that would take me west along the coast, past the popular seaside towns of Zoutelande, Domburg and Oostkapelle (the ‘Zeeland Riviera’) and inland and back via Middleburg, the historic capital. But I’d arrived during a heatwave – climate change can be felt in these parts too – so instead I opted for the easy-peasy ride to Zoutelande, a mere 20km round trip.

I set off on a glorious, undulating path; high atop the dunes that followed the coastline. Past a campsite at Dishoek – a good loo and quiet cafe here – the path descended through cooling woodland right to the centre of the small town. After parking my bike, I wandered back and forth down Langstraat, Zoutelande’s market street, past the cheese and waffle stands, and the seafood stalls doing a roaring trade in mussels and kibbeling (battered whitefish). Tourists, mostly Dutch and German, spilled from the outdoor cafes, but in danger of overheating, I popped into the local Spar for a blast of air-con, before climbing the steps to the dyke overlooking the beach and sweating it out on a bench with my picnic lunch.

The coast path to Zoutelande and beyond (Jini Reddy)

On the way back, I stopped to cool off in the shade of the Nollebos, its trees shading a peaceful labyrinth of paths and creeks and the occasional bench, nicely hidden away – the perfect spot to bring a good book and a flask of iced coffee. Collapsing in my Airbnb in a pleasant stupor was all I was good for that evening. The next morning, I headed back into town, past the marina and a lone windmill, onto the bike and pedestrian-only Westerschelde Ferry. The princely sum of €9 bought me a return ticket for the 20-minute ride to Breskens. The harbour town has a seaside vibe and is close to Belgium but within Dutch territory.

Here, cycle paths both inland and coastal abound. The woman manning the kiosk at the bike shop adjacent to the ferry terminal suggested I cycle to Cadzand, the southernmost seaside resort in the Netherlands and back, an easy 28km round-trip. I could stop there for lunch, she said. But what about the countryside, I wondered, dutifully? Maybe I’d spot another windmill?

I stopped to cool off in the shade of the Nollebos, its trees shading a peaceful labyrinth of paths and creeks and the occasional bench

“You could cycle back through the polders,” she replied, pointing to the swathes of reclaimed lowland on the map. “But honestly, it is too hot. Better you stick to the coast and catch the breeze.” Who was I to argue?

The dyke path was flanked by dunes and marram grass, avenues of yellow ragwort and, here and there, clusters of pinkish beach roses. Early on I passed the Breskens lighthouse, the octagonal black and white tower a magnet to day-trippers. To my left, the polders fanned out, flat and green, and to my right, mile after mile of silky white-sand beach shimmered in the heat haze. Each boasted a smart beach pavilion, many with Ibiza-style vibes, and a DJ on hand to go with the food and drink on offer.

Life’s a beach at Zoutelande (Jini Reddy)

In a cerulean sky more befitting a Mediterranean sunspot, I spotted a mini-murmuration of tiny black birds and wondered if they were perplexed by the uncommon heat. Of course, I never made it as far as Cadzand. I’d caught a whiff of a breeze coming from a wind-carved dune facing the estuary, and that derailed me. I’d found a paradise for those who dream of two wheels and life in the slow lane, and my heart was full.

Travel Essentials

Getting there

Travelling flight-free

Take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Rotterdam Centraal. Fares start from £39 one way when booked as a return, and the journey time is around three and a half hours. From here catch the intercity train to Vlissingen. The direct service takes 90 minutes and costs £22.60 (Both legs of the journey can be booked via trainline.com)

You can also travel via ferry from Harwich to Hoek Van Holland. At the harbour, take the metro to Rotterdam Blaak station, where you join the Intercity train to Vlissingen.

Travelling by air

British Airways flies direct from London City airport to Rotterdam The Hague airport. From here you need to take a bus or a taxi to Rotterdam Centraal, and continue to Vlissingen on the intercity train.

Staying there

Costal del Nolle, an Airbnb studio flat, is located close to the beach, coast path and natural forest. From around £81 per night, depending on the time of year.

Boutique Hotel Lupo, in the town centre, has 17 rooms and a night’s stay includes a buffet breakfast. The hotel will also arrange bike rental for guests, and guests are welcome to leave their bikes overnight in the hotel garden.

A Dutch organisation called Friends of the Bike offers bed and breakfast accommodation across the Netherlands. Pay a fee of €10 a year (if you live outside the Netherlands) and you can view the address guide.