IT’S PITCH DARK at Udai Kothi when I punch in my debit card details to unlock the yellow-and-black e-bike for an early morning jaunt to Rayta Hills.
Over sundowners the previous evening at Baromasi, the in-house brewery at the luxury boutique hotel, Udai Kothi, there was talk of luxury fatigue in Udaipur. Mewari grandeur is a relentless force. You try to escape it—and the bridal parties milling around the Pichola—by ducking into the shadiest gully within the old city maze. But a stained-glass window pops out of a blue wall, a stunning ruby earring dangles off a mound of silver jewellery lying by the kilo in a dusty store, and kids fling themselves off Gangaur Ghat to cool off. Udaipur miraculously waves some magical Rajputana wand on the old and mundane, turning them
