Six years ago, I developed a recipe that—much to my surprise—turned into a sensation. It was for an uncomplicated, unassuming cake, albeit one with a twist: Instead of butter, the batter was enriched with extra-virgin olive oil, the fruitiness of which was subtly boosted with a tiny dose of grated lemon zest. Rather than frosting, this exquisitely simple offering sported a charming crackly sugar crust. Readers were delighted by the way the cake came together quickly using everyday ingredients; how its fine, plush crumb contrasted with its crinkled top; and by the notion that it could be enjoyed plain with an afternoon cup of tea or gussied up with garnishes for a dinner party.
The use of olive oil was intriguing, and many cooks enjoyed surprising guests by revealing the “secret ingredient.” But the oil has another advantage: An oil-based cake tastes softer and moister than a butter cake, because oil is fluid
