The birthplace of tequila and mariachi music, Guadalajara plays a big part in Mexico’s cultural identity. Yet while Mexico City and Cancun pulse with visitors year-round, the capital of the west-coast state of Jalisco has retained a laid-back charm. Its streets are a mixture of grand colonial cathedrals, vendors slathering chilli sauce onto (‘drowned sandwiches’) and a sprinkling of galleries and brunch spots. And with the 11th Gay Games — an international sporting competition for
