TokajiAszú is one of the most complex wines in the world and vintage really matters in this cool, volcanic, continental region on Hungary’s far northeastern edge. For most wines, one season is enough, if it goes well. For Tokaji Aszú, three different seasons must come together. First, a good summer for ripe, healthy grapes, then a humid early autumn is vital for ‘noble rot’ to set in. After that, a sunny, breezy Indian summer is essential to desiccate the berries into aszú (Hungarian for shrivelled and noble-rotted berries).
The ‘Jekyll & Hyde’ fungus botrytis cinerea has two extreme faces. It mostly causes devastating grey rot but very rarely, in certain locations, when conditions are just right, it becomes noble rot. Tokaj (the spelling for the region; Tokaji is the wine) is one of the few places where this happens reliably, and aszú berries have been documented since 1527. Climate, terroir, grape variety and vintage conditions all play a role in allowing botrytis to turn noble – grapes must be ripe, or the result will be destructive grey rot.
Botrytis degrades the skins, making them permeable so water can evaporate, and it changes the composition of the grape, with a dramatic increase in quantities of aromatic compounds, including typical Tokaji characters of apricot, peach, apple, caramel and honey. Glycerol increases significantly, which contributes to the silky, mouthfilling texture of Tokaji wines, a reaction favoured by low pH (a notable
