Decanter

Heritage grains

Ask a whisky distiller to tell you where the flavour in whisky comes from, and they’ll likely talk about oak barrels for a while, maybe give you some detail about their stills. Fermentation may come into it. But precious few will talk about the grain, whisky’s humble raw material, too often taken for granted.

That’s because, for the past few decades at least, efficiency has trumped flavour when it comes to whisky grain varieties. Change is afoot, though, as distillers have begun to rediscover long-lost varieties of grain, finding that they not only taste better, but are more sustainable, too.

REDISCOVERED FLAVOURS

For Irish distillery Waterford, the appeal of heritage barley varieties is purely about flavour. ‘We’re natural flavour seekers, so what could be more natural than the flavours created in one’s own landscape,’ says founder Mark Reynier. He realised that

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Decanter

Decanter6 min read
US Riesling
Too often, Riesling gets a bad rap. Through much of the 20th century, American bottlings were often confusing. There was little consistency in labelling and wines made using unrelated varieties or distant relatives often adopted the name, such as Gre
Decanter10 min read
Rioja Alavesa
Of Rioja’s three sub-zones, Rioja Alavesa is the flyweight. With a total vineyard area of just over 13,000ha, it is by far the smallest, around half the size of heavyweights Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental. And yet, when it comes to influence, creativi
Decanter7 min read
Highly recommended 90-94pts
PBT 95 SJE 94 PM 93 £34.95-£37 Alliance Wine, Uncorked Alluring aromas of white flowers, with a touch of spice and leesy oak. Powerful and weighty in a plump style. Restrained lemon and lime fruit, spicy and full of complexity. Drink 2024-2037 Alc 14

Related Books & Audiobooks