In line at the counter to order a high-crowned pepperoni pizza, fired in a hardwood-stoked oven imported from Italy, I hear a man with tousled hair and muddy jeans say to a woman in a dress and pigtails, “I’m sorry I was late, but I ran over my cell phone with my truck.” Seated at a table in the corner, opposite Claes Oldenburg–inspired wall sculptures of a pizza pie and a bagel, I watch a server place a calzone before a woman in a magnolia-green smock. She takes one look at the giant crescent of
