Sitting on the open top level of the phinisi (a traditional Indonesian sailing vessel), synthetic grass beneath my bare feet and my body relaxing into one of the brightly coloured bean bags on deck, I wait with the rest of the cruise guests and deck crew.
Any minute now, thousands of giant fruit bats will leave their mangrove home on Kalong Island for the night in search of dinner, making a giant black spotty cloud against the pink and orange sunset.
“It's the most beautiful thing in the world,” promised our cruise director, Adam. “You won't understand until you see it.”
It's our final night of a three-day cruise around the uninhabited islands of Indonesia's Komodo National Park. From the moment we arrived onboard Adam hasn't led us astray, so
