The strength of surf culture relies on the diversity of its participants. If culture means “to cultivate” 1 , a nurturing, growing and learning process is needed for our varying coastal communities to flourish.
Surfing originated with Native Hawaiians (though there is evidence of ancient Peruvian fishermen catching waves over 4,000 years ago on caballito de totora—a small, elongated, woven-reed vessel).2 But, regardless of historical preference, all agree that surfing originated with a community of dark-haired, brown-skinned, brown-eyed people. Wave-craft riding expanded quickly into a Western subculture. From the weed-smokin’ seventies to the social-media-manic noughties (and beyond), surf media is shifting from featuring young, blonde-haired, tanned fellas to females and more marginalised groups. Our saltwater pastime is full-throttle popular; crowds worldwide pursue this aquatic adventure-oriented activity.
Does surfing unite us? When chasing swell around the globe, we are exposed to different languages and cultures of various countries. On any swell-forecasting coastline, we find wave-lusting surf travellers. And likewise, boardriders from other countries, like Mexico, hunt waves here, adding cultural nuances to our mix.
We chat with American-born, whose mother immigrated from Mexico to Southern California in the seventies. Belén was raised in her mother’s traditional Mexican culture, living with her large multi-generational family under the same roof. But when you’re the first in your kin to push beyond a strict Latino lifestyle, it’s like
