Autumn is a time when my kitchen comes alive once more in earnest and I fall back in love with those slow, careful kitchen crafts like tart making. Seasonal produce at this time of year lends itself to the gentle rhythm of kitchen pottering and asks you to work a little harder than the ripe, showy goods of high summer, but rewards you richly for your efforts. Among the stars of this season are gourds and squashes, whose sweet, nutty flavours are a key part of my autumnal cooking repertoire.
The allure of squashes lies in their
