RUSKA IS THE FINNISH WORD used to describe the spectacular natural autumn phenomenon that transforms the countryside of Lapland into an explosion of colour. Golden birch leaves hang from white, gnarled branches, a beautiful contrast to the flaming-red carpet of blueberry bushes on the forest floor. The low-lying, late-afternoon sun bathes the surroundings in a soft, warm light, further deepening the blue of the lakes.
It’s a seasonal spectacle that usually lasts about two weeks. But we don’t know how lucky we—myself, Fränzi, and Martin—are to be in Lapland for a week of MTB-ing during this unparalleled natural event until we land in Kittilä, far north of the Arctic circle. As soon as we leave the airport, on both sides of the road, we see nothing but the blazing colours of autumn forests. It’s almost overwhelming.
Forest covers 70% of Finland, so trees are thick everywhere. But here and there, we catch glimpses of little settlements and their typical red wooden houses. “The colour,” explains Juha, our driver, “originally came from the red oxide sludge left from the mine tailings. These hamlets usually consist of a few homes, a guest house, a bakery, barns and outbuildings. The reason they’re so spread out is so they don’t all go up in flames if there’s a fire. After all, we have enough space.” Juha’s family has been living in the Levi area for over five hundred years. Today, he and his wife, Heidi, operate a renowned travel agency, Polar Star Travel. We’re thrilled to be able to travel around with people whose local roots run deep.
The log house we’re staying in—so perfect it could be a movie, which means steakhouse. The old floorboards creak as we step into the room. Floors, ceilings, walls, chairs. All made with wood. The counter, on which is spread a huge buffet, is made of natural rock. The ambience is sublime.
