THERE IS NO WAY to truly know Antarctica: It’s too vast, too un-predictable, and too treacherous—a place so unlike the tamed world we live in that it might as well be another planet entirely.
Still, dozens of cruise ships strive to provide a glimpse of the White Continent every year, and due to strict regulations, most offer similar itineraries. But that doesn’t mean the experiences are identical. Options range from so-called cruise-by voyages, with more than 500 passengers who never set foot on land, to sailboat expeditions for hard-core adventurers.
As I kayaked in a remote bay where I was greeted by six humpback whales, I was glad to be traveling with Aurora Expeditions. The Australian company is committed to protecting Antarctica’s fragile environment, and it leans heavily into adventure without sacrificing comfort. Its new ship, the 132-passenger , is climate neutral and features an onboard citizen-science center so that travelers