OFF the BEATEN TRACK
Seven days and five of Aotearoa's greatest backcountry lakes. That's the promise for my partner Agustina and me. I'd been reading blogs, watching videos and studying Topo50 maps that would enable us to construct a route encompassing the highlights of the Travers–Sabine, including Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake and Lake Angelus.
The first leg to Lakehead Hut – just three hours – begins beneath a chorus of korimako. There are many daywalkers to dodge on the path to Lake Rotoiti, but we are buoyed by the thrill of starting a multiday track.
The dreary damp of Coldwater Hut is not for us and we carry on to Lakehead Hut, which is quiet for an Easter Friday – just us and a young family. Our pesto, zucchini and mushroom ravioli is one of two fresh meals we've planned. Food rations are organised into mesh bags – I carry the odd days and Agustina the even. Each morning, snacks are redistributed into accessible pockets, and we both eagerly anticipate every second day when
