oldan Canaquiri shuffles over dried reeds that crackle under his bare feet, and climbs slowly down the riverbank, testing the soft earth with his toes before each step. The big winter rains have come and the river is rising: every day part of the bank collapses into the swirling foam below. But Roldan is not afraid. The Kukama Indigenous elder has lived on the Marañón River in Peru’s northern Amazon for nearly
