1 Bollinger, La Grande Année Brut 2014 96
£125-£160 Widely available Fermented in small oak barrels, predominantly bought second-hand from Burgundy, in which the wine ages for up to six months. A delicious conundrum in 2014, managing to be both deeply resonant and surprisingly subtle. Beneath fragrant blackberry and baked plum fruit sits the richness of chestnut honey, rye bread and cocoa. There’s zesty brightness and cooked orchard fruit, perfectly composed, shaped with precision and energy. Six and a half years on lees. One of the top 2014s. Drink 2023-2040 Alcohol 12.5%
2 Krug, Grande Cuvée 170ème Edition Brut 96
£215-£265 Widely available Fermented in small barrels averaging 20 years of age and moved into stainless steel after three months. This edition is really waking up now, jumping with lime syrup, caramelised apple tart and raspberry with a beautiful lift of jasmine and coffee. Clean lines, narrow and ageworthy, impeccably balanced with detailed length. Notably unoaky and energetic in the context of this tasting. Drink 2023-2050 Alc 12.5%
3 95
