cult food
Forget hype fashion – the new signifiers of taste are a little more literal. Stylist’s Meena Alexander spends 48 hours on the trail of London’s most-wanted food
words: meena alexander
We’ve finally made it through the door, and now we have front-row seats. Phone cameras flash as the creations float past. “Such rich colours,” the woman behind me murmurs. “If that one sells out I cry,” her friend replies. We’re not inside a London Fashion Week tent, or trying to get our hands on the latest launch at Dover Street Market. We’re in south London, queuing for 45 minutes (and counting) for a sandwich. At 12.30pm every Monday, pre-order opens for Chatsworth Bakehouse’s drop of the week, a single sandwich for which hundreds travel far and wide. It’s a symptom of a trend that’s reaching fever pitch: where once the way to show you had your finger on the pulse was to carry a limited-edition Telfar, now an Instagram Story of a croissant will do – providing it’s from the latest hype bakery that is talking about. You’ll have noticed the shift online, where shopping hauls and unboxing videos are focusing on food over fashion. The world’s most-followed are aligning themselves accordingly – take Hailey Bieber’s collaboration
