Wilderness

TARARUA HEARTLAND

“Come over the lip, Pete! It’s sheltered here,” Andy called.

Andy Caruthers, my companion on this trip into the Tararua Range, was struggling to control his shivering fingers and lock ‘find’ mode on his Garmin for Arete Hut. Meanwhile, horizontal sleet whipped around us, caught fleetingly in the beams of our headlamps.

The tussock-covered tops were coated in micro rime ice. It could have been incredibly beautiful, but our only thoughts were to find the hut somewhere 150m below.

“It’s that way,” Andy confirmed, determinedly setting off downhill.

Relief came when Andy whooped confirmation that he’d reached the hut. We battled with the ice-sealed door, and once inside we laughed, both coated from head to foot in verglas. It was easy to see how death could visit here in winter if you

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