The yacht Diversity leaves the harbour of Aqaba, the only coastal town in Jordan. To the right is the Israeli resort of Eilat; in the Red Sea, a boxfish makes leisurely circles in absurdly clear, turquoise water.
The boat soon anchors just offshore, directly in front of Aqaba’s electricity plant, and suddenly everything happens quickly: the passengers donned wetsuits, passed around gloves and cloth bags, and then, one by one, dive in. They