The Texas Observer

THE HILL COUNTRY’S LOST UTOPIA

On the south banks of the Llano River, the Castell General Store hosts its bimonthly “Drinking with Jesus” church service. Even with dogged Sunday morning rain, around 70 people recently gathered in the back room, singing “Count Your Blessings” while sipping bloody marys and mimosas.

Repurposed from an old gas station, the Hill Country store’s interior is lined with exposed brick and corrugated metal. Tables are made from slabs of wood bolstered by wooden beer barrels. An eclectic mix of decorative figures—Darth Vader, Snoop Dog drinking Corona, a mounted deer head with beer bottles for antlers—stare as the churchgoers sing. The offerings are as varied as the decor: burgers and tacos, fishing and camping gear, groceries, and a sermon on the parable of the prodigal son.

After the laid-back service, owners Randy Leifeste and his son Marc Leifeste, along with cousin Bobbette Estes, tell me about August and Sophie Leifeste, the

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