Vertical Life

Maddy WHITTAKER

Maddy Whittaker discovered the mountains at 17 and launched herself into alpinism with inspirational—and slightly intimidating—passion. Just five years later, she’s undertaking a mentorship with the NZ Alpine Team and has first ascents, a two-month transalpine traverse and an award-winning film to her name.

At VL, we had to know more! We caught up with Maddy to hear about how she got to where she is… and what she’s planning next.

First up, tell us about the trans-alpine traverse and what inspired it

One pivotal moment was a trip up Mount French, which is near Mount Aspiring on the Bonar Glacier, right after I had learnt snow craft. When we saw the sunrise over the glacier, I didn’t know I had the capacity to feel so much awe and joy. Coming back and leaving the mountains had always been my least favourite part of the trips I did; this time I thought, “Well, what if I didn’t have to leave?”

Another pivotal moment was when I did my first new route—Mount Joffre, a 450m WI4 ice-route. I was new to ice climbing and I’d only done a few routes on top rope before

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