STESSA SPIAGGIA, STESSA MARE (“same beach, same sea”): the rituals of the Italian holiday season have remained unchanged for generations. On 1 May, the bathing stations on the Venice Lido set up their beach huts and umbrellas for the opening weekend, despite it being ten degrees and pouring down. May in La Serenissima is now the season of pac-a-macs and weeping brides.
Head for the hills …
it’s no longer the thing to attend the “exclusive” preview days of Biennale — too many people, too many parties, too much fawning coverage of painfully inadequate exhibits. Unless one
