Even after two years of living in Seoul, I’m continually astonished by the famous pace of change here. Chic coffee shops alight, rebrand, and disappear almost overnight. Chunks of a neighborhood will suddenly be fenced off, bulldozed, and readied for development. A map of the subway system that I bought when I first arrived is already out of date, missing the latest stops—something truly bizarre to a longtime New Yorker.
The capital city’s art scene has been undergoing quicksilver changes, too, as big-league international galleries such as Gladstone, König, Tang, and many more have opened branches. To get a sense of just how remarkable the shifts of recent decades.