CLEMENT ROSEYRO
The day before there had been no waves, no sign of any swell until the sunset…
I tried to get a good night’s sleep, but I woke around 6am, and headed to the beach at 6.30 with my friend Jerome Cloetens and photographer Samuel Cardenas. It was still dark, but we could hear the waves and saw the first wave closeout on the beach. The swell was there, clearly, but I didn’t get any real idea of what the size of the waves outside might be. But I knew
