ven if it never quite garnered the same attention as other so-called Old World varieties, Sangiovese in California isn’t exactly news. The “Cal-Ital” movement of the 1980s and its later proponents reminded everyone that, while Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay might get all the press, many Italian grapes have been grown uninterruptedly in America’s most famous wine-growing state and with significant success. But most people don’t
