ecipes handed down from grandmothers have always fascinated me. It seems a self-evident truth that their generation were better cooks than today’s kitchen triers. Simple ingredients, no-fuss methods, satisfying results – so the reminiscence goes. Unfortunately, that wasn’t my experience. Neither of my grandmothers were natural cooks, and my mum was no better. They bought cheap meat and carbs because that’s all they could afford, and didn’t have the time – because they worked long hours in factories. My mum once roasted a giant cow’s heart for Sunday lunch
