CATALOOCHEE RANCH, WHERE OUR ADVENTURE BE- gins, is the kind of magical mountainous resort you’ve heard about but may never have truly believed existed, a mythic horse paradise with amazing food, unbelievable views, and romantic cabins. It’s right above Maggie Valley, North Carolina, and just below the clouds.
Laura and I were here to ride horses. Laura’s my wife, and, like me, new to the horse-riding game. This would be our first real trip on the back of a horse or, now that I think about it, on the back of any animal. We like to think of ourselves as adventurers but adventurers in the suburban sense of the word, meaning we’ll try our hand at anything if there’s wireless, a shower, bourbon, and a soft but firm mattress nearby. Cataloochee checked all the boxes. Our welcome dinner included grilled tuna tonnato, braised rabbit, and rib eye—standard fare on a
