Gourmet Traveller

Natural wine is dead

n some ways, the natural wine movement and I grew up together (from afar). It was 2011 and I was just starting out as a sommelier when Tom Shobbrook and the late Sam Hughes (in neon pink hot pants, no less) came bursting through my door with their newest vintage of Natural Selection Theory wines (crafted alongside Anton Von Klopper and James Erskine). Twelve years on, that first meeting still lives in my mind and I hold it dear as

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