THREE YEARS AGO, I wouldn’t have stumped for the virtues of making ceviche—that would be raw (or at least citrus-cured) fish—at home. Yes, combining citrus juice with seafood and letting it sit does “cook” the protein in a way, but I wasn’t about to take any risks with my supermarket’s subpar seafood counter.
Then came the pandemic and the rise of direct-to-consumer selling and, well, I could suddenly get my hands on high-quality fish and didn’t have to blow a good chunk of my
