Bhutan has a great sense of arrival. As the Druk Air flight glides into the valley, the magnificent Paro Dzong swoops into view. The airport’s new terminal, inaugurated in 2015, is in the traditional Bhutanese style. The drive to Thimphu, on a buttery smooth highway is along towering crags with the Paro Chhu river flowing merrily below. This was my second visit and I was keen to observe what had changed in a country known to be the poster-child of happiness.
Thimphu, nothing more than a small town when I came over a decade ago, had become a bustling city. The traffic was dignified since honking is not encouraged and, yes, there were still no
