It’s 3.30am and I’m on my way to the top of the Haleakala volcano on the Hawaiian island of Maui to watch the sun rise. Yes, I know crazy o’clock is not the time you want to be getting up on holiday, but I’m told this is a must-do when you’re in Hawaii so, well, I must do it. Preston, our guide, keeps the lights off as the coach zigzags up the mountain so those who want to can sleep. Me? I’m wide awake as my body clock is still on UK time, 11 hours ahead of the islands. I peer out of the window into miles of darkness and savour the fact that light pollution has not infected Maui.
“You’re in the most remote place on the most remote islands in the world,” Preston
