Visits to Venice tend to go two ways: either it’s your first time in the floating city and you head straight for the big sights, milling around in St Mark’s Square or joining the (long) queue to peek inside the Doge’s Palace, unable to resist the lure of those much talked-about attractions.
Or you try to outsmart the other tourists, making a beeline for the backstreets to soak up the rarefied atmosphere of the city’s lesser-seen spots or stop at tiny, tucked-away bars – the Venetian equivalent of tapas – to in-the-know Italians.
