A rustle in the undergrowth gave them away. Beneath a tree beside my tent stood two tiny antelope - blue-grey with twig-thin legs, big cartoon eyes and the profiles of Roman emperors. They regarded me for a moment with a shrew-like twitch of their noses then skittered away. Dik-dik are so numerous here that there is barely a tree or shrubby bush that is without an attendant pair. But while they may be common, it is unshowy creatures such as these that ensure Kenya’s Laikipia Wilderness Camp is able to sustain far more unusual animals.
Laikipia lies at the foot of Mount Kenya, a two-hour drive from the town of Nanyuki. The wilderness camp sits on the scrub-covered slopes of a rocky outcrop, almost hidden. It was built by Steve Carey, who moved to this wild, sparsely populated area a decade ago and made it his permanent home. As a result, the camp feels very different
