In 2018, Turkish food critic and TV personality Vedat Milor sparked a Twitter frenzy by launching a simple poll: Should menemen—the hearty breakfast of eggs, peppers, and tomato—contain onion? Nearly half a million impassioned Turks weighed in. Yes, they decided, but the victory was narrow, with just 50.6 percent of the vote.
It’s only natural that the topic should be so hotly debated, as menemen is central to Turkish foodways. When I spoke to Filiz Zorlu, author of (2007), she commented on