“WE HAVE TAILS AT ONE O’CLOCK,” Andrew tells me. I’m standing on the bow of a seventeen-foot skiff as our guide, Andrew Murphy, points at a large school feeding in front of us. The scene is textbook bonefish: the boat, the clear shallows, and the tanned, mellow guide. Except we’re in Québec, two thousand miles north of Nassau and the nearest conch fritter.
This is the (Chaleur Bay), a southern arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence into which more than twenty famous Atlantic-salmon rivers flow, including the Restigouche, Bonaventure, and Grand Cascapedia. The bay sits on the easternmost part of Québec’s Gaspé Peninsula—a knotty thumb of land at the geological north end
