Outer Hebrides TRAVEL
On our first night, the setting sun was burnishing a wide path across the unusually calm Atlantic Ocean when suddenly people on the campsite began excitedly pointing out to sea. Two bottlenose dolphins were hunting for fish close to the shore with more further away. We watched them leap clear of the water, sending cascades of sparkling droplets flying. Each time they spouted, the sound of their exhalation reached us through the still air; I could even hear the water rippling as they breached.
We already counted ourselves lucky to have seen porpoises and common dolphins on the five-hour ferry trip from Oban to Barra. Conditions were perfect as we sailed into Castlebay, passing Kisimul Castle on its little island, with Heaval, the highest hill on Barra, as a backdrop.
When Donald had showed us to our pitch at the far end of Borve Camping, it had looked a tight squeeze, but now we felt it was the best spot of all, perched atop the sea wall with a magnificent view. The relatively small campsite was sandwiched between the coast road and the sea, but had a smart new facilities block.
I had booked campsite pitches with electric hook-up because I was on a mission and anxious that I wouldn't accomplish it before we ran out of LPG. The only autogas pump in the Outer Hebrides is in Stornoway on Lewis, but we weren't going that far north, so our tank
