TRAVEL Iceland
There’s nothing like a fire alarm to kill the mood. We’d come halfway across the world to marvel at a distant Islandic fjord when smoke began to pour from a hatch in the deck of our little motorboat Suddenly, remoteness looked less alluring.
We’d chosen the Westfjords - a peninsula looking from above rather like a nasty growth on a roughly oval mass - precisely for its nature and isolation. Volcanic eruptions some 14 to 16 million years ago gave rise to the mysterious land, and today it is covered with soft green moss creeping over rough black basalt
Most road-trippers to Iceland take the well-trodden “ring road”, the only tarred route circumnavigating the island. But we took a more intrepid