N INCONSEQUENTIAL lane meanders through walled pastures south of Penrith, easing into the minor foothills of north-east Lakeland, and arriving at a valley flooded by Haweswater Reservoir to service Manchester 100 miles away. The head of the dale is crammed with craggy corries that rise over 800m at High Street. Historical narratives abound. Glaciers shaped the valley, and man came to hill and dale after their retreat. High Street is so named because it transported Romans between
