MMM - The Motorhomers' Magazine

A meander through hidden heartlands

Discovering Jaizkibel campsite, where we were intending to stay at is closed, Seán reverses, slaloming around motorbikes, cars and vans, accompanied by the enthusiastic gesticulations of a bar full of drinkers until, finally out, they applaud. The sat-nav then sends us up Jaizkibel's winding road before directing us down a goat track.

My partner in crime coolly informs me he hasn't got round to downloading the app alerting us to narrow roads or, in this case, goat tracks. I'm convinced it's just so he can execute a hair-raising three-point turn.

San Sebastián's Camping Igueldo is on a bus route to the centre and on the Camino de Santiago's pilgrim footpath.

We walk the four miles of the Camino to the old town, with the Pyrenees as the backdrop, and goats scrambling in lush fields above Atlantic coves.

Surfers ride the waves in front of San Sebastián's tree-lined promenade. Revellers pack the old town's bars, which radiate from the Baroque basilica. We feast in the Ambigú Bar, the food living up to the city's gastronomic reputation, especially the banana crisp dessert filled with vanilla and apricot mascarpone. Constitution Square is breathtaking, with its intricate iron balconies, arcaded walkways, sherbet lemon walls – the old bullring's numbers still on the apartments.

Mount Urgull's summit offers up 360-degree views of port, beaches, mountains and ocean, but my technical companion is absorbed by the metal step ladder up the back of the giant statue of Jesus and the lightning conductor that tops it. I move him on

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