Decanter

Exploring village wines

Theyear 2017 was a memorable one in Rioja for two reasons. First, on 28 April, came the great frost, which also wreaked its chilly havoc over Bordeaux and swathes of northern Europe. Some producers were lucky enough to suffer less than others, but even then, the vintage was greatly reduced. In due course, nature revived – as it nearly always does.

The second event has caused more long-lasting effects. This was the decision to introduce a category of Vinos de Municipio, commonly translated in English as ‘village wines’.

It sounds like a long overdue step to give recognition to Rioja’s villages. After all, this is one of the many charms of Rioja. As you drive through the wine country, a series of strikingly lovely villages are stretched out along the road, each one beckoning the visitor.

The fortified hilltop village of Laguardia, still with its medieval gates, is one such site. Labastida, named after its medieval bastion, is obvious, and its Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is visible for miles. San Vicente de la Sonsierra also stands out, its modern buildings

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