Onceused as mere support for Tempranillo, the red varieties Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana now have a voice of their own. They may be a little more challenging than the versatile, charming Garnacha, but changing conditions resulting from climate change, coupled with the thirst for something different, are driving a new breed of varietal reds in Rioja.
In the context of increasing temperatures, Graciano (1,400ha of plantings in Rioja) is a star. Boasting one of the deepest, most vibrant ruby shades in Rioja’s colour spectrum, it has high acidity and distinctive herbal and floral aromas, and has been the secret ingredient behind aged Rioja – just a little can really make a difference. In 1990 there were less than 200ha remaining, but a 1996 study carried out by the regional consejo concluded that Graciano was more suitable to escort Tempranillo than Cabernet Sauvignon, and since then the area under vine has grown steadily.
Interestingly, the first single-variety Graciano was made by Brown Brothers in Australia in the 1970s. Contino and Viña Ijalba didn’t produce theirs until the
