For most of the year, Embleton Bay is almost deserted, a magical curve of sand on the edge of the world. When you approach from the dunes, the crunch of sea-scraping sand hits you first, and the marram grass slaps your legs. Pearly shells litter the path and oystercatchers erupt into the air as the skies unfold.
The dunes drop away on to the beach and you are greeted with a clear stretch of glossy sand burning orange under the sun, licked by dancing waves that froth and churn. If you are lucky, a black head will be bobbing in the water, the whiskery face of a seal. Further out, beyond the ancient rocks below Dunstanburgh Castle, dolphins flick spray into the air, arching their gleaming bodies like rainbows.
This is where the pupils of Embleton Primary School come every Friday – to learn. Pulling on waterproofs and wellies, 53 children, aged from three to
