A decade ago, Lima was unburdened with expectation. It’s long been one of South America’s larger cities — with a population of over 11 million, it’s currently only just lagging behind the likes of Bogotá and Rio de Janeiro. But for years it had neither the international reputation nor connections to make it worth much of a detour for anyone beyond dusty backpackers making their way up or down the mighty Pan-American Highway, and travellers transferring on to Machu Pichu or the Peruvian Amazon.
But over the past 10 years, the Peruvian capital has steadily been establishing itself as South America’s premier culinary destination. Visitors today will find a city almost overburdened with fine dining, extraordinary produce and plenty of surprises besides.
The founding of Central, the pioneering flagship restaurant of chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pía León, was a defining moment in Lima’s uphill trajectory. It entered the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2013 and in 2021 Pía was named the World’s Best Female Chef. Today, tables at Central are as in-demand as those at any Michelin-starred restaurant a world away in Paris. And as of 2022, it was still in the list — ranking second alongside Lima’s Mayta (number 32) and Maido (number
