With the same level of joy I felt on my wedding day, I’m eyeing the saucer of chicken curry coming out of the kitchen and rolling up my sleeves in anticipation. It’s chicken masala fry, to be precise, a leg portion pooling in rich gravy flecked with coriander with strips of raw onion, lemon quarters and green chillies on the side. I’ve been coming to Olympia Coffee House in Mumbai’s Colaba neighbourhood for more than 10 years, although the beloved spot has been around since 1918. In truth, jet-lagged and in search of breakfast, I came for its kheema pav curry, but it had sold out by 10am. But my dish is an excellent consolation. Wiping up the remnants with buttery roti, my fingers turmeric-tinged and stinging, I pay a bill of barely £2 and stroll out onto Colaba Causeway, making a beeline towards a Fabindia clothing shop to buy trousers for the train ride to
THE MANDOVI EXPRESS
Feb 02, 2023
6 minutes
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