The scorched earth ends with precision. One side of the road is a scattering of blackened stumps, the other side a carpet of pristine green, like the stuff greengrocers used to put under their shop displays. This is Quinta do Lago, less nestled and more flag-planted in the eastern Algarve, a huge privately owned resort of 2,000 acres. Or, proudly, ‘three times the size of Monaco’.
The net worth of most individuals here might be similar to Monaco too, because while anyone can rent a hotel room or a private villa for reasonable money, real estate changes hands for millions of euros, something that apparently only grew in lockdown as ex-pats cashed their chips and moved here wholesale to enjoy a life of some luxury. Especially if you happen to like golf, because Quinta do Lago is the place that made golf synonymous with the Algarve.
The Algarve is really quite lumpy, and heading further west those lumps increase in stature
But as we all know from some years back, cycling is the new golf, which although a phrase I shudder at is in essence the reason that ex-pro rider and my ride buddy for the day Marcus is waiting for me in Quinta do Lago’s Bike Shed. This is the resort’s guiding, hire and service centre, and its presence reflects two things: one, the changing tastes of the resort’s clientele; and two, the fact that the Algarve has some challenging and quite beautiful terrain. And with most people on the links, that’s going to leave a lot of road for us.
Best laid plans
The Algarve isn’t exactly Alpine, but it is really quite lumpy, and heading further west those lumps begin to increase in stature until