Indianapolis Monthly

RESTAURANTS

DOWNTOWN

INCLUDES Fletcher Place, Fountain Square, Mass Ave, Mile Square

Aroma

INDIAN Familiar tandoori and tikka masala staples mingle with heartier, more elevated offerings at this elegant pan-Indian spot that opened in the former Rook location in early 2021. Lunchtime lamb and chicken rolls in crispy flatbread wrappers stand out, as do hearty chaat dishes dressed up with yellow peas, yogurt, and chutneys. An impressive lamb shank is the highlight of the chef’s specialties and easily feeds two or more. A full bar and an artful array of desserts help round out a special-occasion meal. Opt for the orange pudding, a creamy, lightly sweet rice pudding served in an orange shell with a chocolate tuille. 501 Virginia Ave., 317-602-7117, aromaindy.com

Ash & Elm Cider Co. Restaurant and Cider Bar

GASTROPUB A long-awaited move to the historic former Ford Assembly Plant building on East Washington Street not only brought Indy’s premier cider-maker a few blocks closer to downtown but also ushered in a full menu of snacks and dinner dishes created by chef Tracey Couillard. Start with a cider slushie or a cidermosa (peach, mango, or guava) to enjoy with tangy, rich deviled eggs or crisp, light elote fritters with a bright cilantro crema. Then move to a flagship cider such as the semi-sweet or tart cherry for the main courses, including a standout roasted chicken breast with a crispy hasselback potato, hanger steak with chanterelles, or pan-fried walleye. But don’t pass up the apt apple-cheddar melt or the burger of the moment, lavished with crab dip or garlic scape pesto. 1301 E. Washington St., 317-600-3164, ashandelmcider.com

Beholder

CONTEMPORARY A former car-repair shop sets the stage for daring performance art that has featured pig-skin noodles and granita-topped uni designed to melt on the tongue, as well as buttermilk fried chicken with wildflower honey. The labor-intensive cocktails are spot-on. 1844 E. 10th St., 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com

Bluebeard

CONTEMPORARY Bluebeard opened in 2012, and crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’s take on seasonal comfort food. Start with the bread baked next door at Amelia’s—it’s especially delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the ever-changing menu of small and large dishes. Fried morels may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a comforting butcher-shop Bolognese. For a special-occasion meal, rent out the private upper-level dining room. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com

Bodhi: Craft Bar + Thai Bistro

THAI Three generations of women form the culinary foundation of this Mass Ave restaurant serving a small, focused menu of Thai dishes like Massaman curry with braised beef and Bodhi’s own version of non-Americanized pad thai. Cocktails get a lot of attention on a drinks list designed by Ball & Biscuit’s Heather Storms. Try the Thai Iced Tea cocktail with bourbon, rye, spiced ginger liqueur, demerara sugar, orange peel, and housemade Thai iced tea. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-941-6595, bodhi-indy.com

Bru Burger Bar

GOURMET BURGERS The generous patties here combine sirloin, chuck, and brisket and are paired with cocktails and craft beers. Highlights include the signature Bru Burger, with bacon, Taleggio, sweet tomato jam, and porter-braised onions. 410 Massachusetts Ave., 317-635-4278, bruburgerbar.com

Cafe Patachou

The original Meridian-Kessler “student union for adults” continues to

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