Did you know that the best kachoris anywhere in Rajasthan are made by halwais from Jodhpur? Or that the key ingredient of laal maas—the Mathania chilli, which lends the dish its fiery red colour—hails from Jodhpur? Or that Kesar Kasturi, the iconic heritage liquor of Rajasthan, is made from an official recipe of the erstwhile Jodhpur State?
All conversations about Rajasthani food eventually veer towards Jodhpur, making landfall at Umaid Bhawan Palace, where the royals have kept the fires of their culinary traditions burning bright and steady. Who better to peel back the layers of Marwar’s food heritage and reveal the secrets of its kitchens than its greatest custodian?
We’ve answered the summons and await an audience at the Umaid Bhawan Palace, the royal residence that’s now one of the best palace hotels in the world. HRH Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur—fondly called ‘Bapji’—walks in suddenly, through some sort of secret door, and settles down for a chat.
With his 75th birthday celebrations coming up soon, Singh looks elegantly understated. Back from a slew of family weddings and gearing up for Jodhpur’s annual polo
