“Rachel Lang is like a Japanese restaurant fairy godmother.”
It’s a Sunday night in Tokyo and the eight seats at Shinsuke Mizutani’s thick cedar sushi counter are full. The young chef is shaping perfect nigiri bites one at a time for his customers – a piece of iridescent mackerel on top of a lightly-vinegared lozenge of rice and a delicious of-the-season slice of fish called isaki, which translates into English as the rather less appealing ‘chicken grunt’.
Two couples